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Miami Airport's Maestro Pizza criticized amid broader airport food quality concerns

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Miami Airport's Maestro Pizza criticized amid broader airport food quality concerns
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Maestro Pizza in Miami International Airport has recently gained notoriety for its poor quality, with online reviews labeling it as one of the worst pizzas available. Comments from patrons describe the pizza as "like pizza box cardboard with melted cheese on top" and "a flat piece of rubber with sauce and cheese on top." The restaurant is noted for long wait times, unfriendly staff, and high prices, further contributing to its negative reputation.

The issues surrounding Maestro Pizza are reflective of broader challenges faced by airport food vendors. According to experts, airport food is not selected for its quality but rather to serve a captive audience while ensuring profitability for the airport and concessionaires. This business model involves covering higher labor and food costs, often leading to subpar dining experiences.

Several constraints impact the quality of airport food. Restaurants must bring all supplies through security checkpoints, limiting their ability to receive fresh ingredients regularly. Additionally, there are restrictions on which vendors can supply food items due to security regulations. Limited storage space and reliance on electric cooktops instead of gas ovens also contribute to the challenges.

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Security measures further complicate operations; chefs' knives must be tethered to walls and inventoried daily. Hiring competent staff is difficult because employees need to pass security checks, making on-the-spot hiring almost impossible.

The focus on serving a high volume of passengers quickly often results in "lowest common denominator cooking." Passengers typically choose restaurants based on convenience rather than culinary reputation. High rents necessitate rapid service and high turnover rates.

Despite these challenges, Tortas Frontera at O'Hare International Airport stands out as an exception. Founded by chef Rick Bayless, Tortas Frontera prioritizes product quality over profit margins. Bayless secured his own purveyor licensed for airport access and worked with local suppliers. He also optimized recipes for how people would experience them after being packed in to-go boxes for extended periods.

Bayless's commitment included refusing to premake food and declining advice from HMSHost to reduce spice levels. He insisted on a separate prep kitchen to overcome space constraints within the airport.

One traveler noted that they prefer connecting flights through O'Hare specifically for the opportunity to eat at Tortas Frontera, even opting out of meals provided by airlines or airport lounges in favor of Bayless's offerings.

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